The Quirimbas Archipelago has developed a near-mythical status as being home to some of the finest scuba diving and deep-sea fishing on the planet. The problem (if you’re like most of us for whom money doesn’t grow on trees) is that the lodges located on the islands of the archipelago are almost without exception very upmarket affairs with similarly upmarket price tags to match!

Don’t despair though as there is an excellent lower-cost option which is perfectly suited to keen scuba divers or deep-sea fishing enthusiasts on a bit more of a budget – the charmingly unpretentious little gem that is Situ Island Resort! Located on the southern-most island of the Quirimbas, Situ Island is an easy 90-minute boat ride from the port at Pemba into which there are regular direct flights from Johannesburg (which means you avoid those expensive helicopter transfers necessary to get to most of the other island lodges in the area)

Arriving at the lodge which is attractively positioned on a white sand beach framed by a few prominent coral outcrops, the warm welcome you receive quickly sets the tone for the rest of your stay. In fact, Tessa and Craig Macdonald, the South African couple who run Situ (not to mention Mischief, Tessa’s adorable Jack Russell!) have conjured up a wonderfully warm and friendly yet relaxed sense of hospitality at Situ Island that we consider to be perhaps the lodge’s most stand-out feature. They make a fantastic team – Tessa looking after the Scuba diving operation with Craig skippering the deep-sea fishing trips (as well as being a superb chef)

The vibe that Tessa and Craig have created at Situ Island is very much that of a home away from home, which fits right in with the simple and unpretentious nature of the lodge. The hub of everything at Situ is the main restaurant and lounge area with its sand floors, comfy seating and open sides to allow the cooling sea breezes through. There’s DSTV in the lounge area so sports enthusiasts don’t have to miss the big game – better still, you can sit back and relax with a good book whilst enjoying a cold drink from the honesty bar (just help yourself to what you fancy and write it down in the book to settle on check-out) One thing we also found great was that the fridge was kept stocked with a supply of cold water in re-useable glass bottles, a much eco-friendlier alternative to plastic bottles and free to boot (often not the case in many other island lodges!)

After enjoying a pre-dinner sundowner drink around a bonfire on the beach, dinners are enjoyed around a communal table under the stars, where guests happily chat and compare notes about their days whilst enjoying the seriously delicious and imaginative meals that Craig conjures up in the kitchen (not to mention his stream of banter, jokes and amusing anecdotes!) On a recent trip to check out a number of lodges in the Quirimbas area, we rated Craig’s cooking as being the best that we tasted!

The 8 standalone rooms at Situ stretch out on either side from the main lodge area and are similarly low key and simple – they’re not ever going to be in line for any design or style awards but are perfectly comfortable for all that and eminently practical too. There’s no air-conditioning which could be an issue in the peak of summer, but the walls are cleverly constructed from woven lattice screens that allow cooling breezes to flow through and there are also fans above the bed. Mosquito nets over the comfy beds ensure you’re not bothered by the pesky little critters. A small patio area outside boasts a couple of chairs along with a daybed or hammock if you fancy relaxing whilst looking out over the bay.

But to be honest, you’re not going to come to Situ for the style of the rooms or to hang about the lodge all day. The real stars of the show here live below the surface of the water and keen scuba divers and fishing enthusiasts will be eager to get onto one of the lodge’s boats to explore the surrounding ocean asap.

The coral reefs in the Quirimbas are renowned as some of the best in the world having remained largely unbleached and boasting a profusion of marine life. Tessa is a passionate scuba diver and amateur underwater photographer who takes huge pleasure in guiding divers around the 18 dive sites that the lodge has identified – from shallow bommies perfect for newcomers, to rewarding wall dives for the more experienced. And best of all you’re likely to be the only divers enjoying this underwater paradise!

Craig on the other hand, takes care of the fishing side of operations and again the quality on offer here is top drawer. With a huge array of habitats – from tidal sandbars and mangroves, to coral reefs and huge drop offs – a wide array of species can be targeted in a variety of ways. Highlights as ever are the various billfish species including marlin, sailfish and swordfish, GT’s and various tuna including big Yellowfin and Dogtooth Tuna.

Back at the lodge there’s the chance to swim or snorkel in front of the lodge at high tide – the lodge works hand in hand with the local village on the island and the area in front of the lodge is a no-fishing zone with the result that a surprising amount of marine life can be seen here! Another firm favourite with guests is to head off for a paddle on one of the lodge’s kayaks, especially in the late afternoon to work up a thirst for sundowners! We also enjoyed doing a 15-minute walk to check out an impressively massive baobab tree nearby. Of course, another very tempting option is to simply relax and do as little as possible, perhaps enjoying a relaxing massage to help get rid of the last of those remaining city stresses!