After a bumpy 45 minute drive south from the airport we arrived at Fumba Beach Lodge and immediately knew that we had arrived at the kind of lodge we love. If you’re looking for solitude and tranquillity and wish to avoid the more developed beach areas of the east coast, then Fumba Beach could be the place for you.

Charming Dutch owner Edwin, a veteran hotel manager for major hotel groups over many years, chucked in the corporate life and carved out this beautiful slice of paradise from virgin bush. He’s used his considerable imagination to create a lodge with style and elegance and some of the most stylish rooms to be found anywhere on the island at this price level. There are 26 rooms altogether at Fumba, a bit larger than many of the other beach lodges on Zanzibar. The good news though is that Fumba occupies quite a large area of real estate, so you never get the feeling of being too on top of anyone else.

The standard rooms have to be some of the nicest of their kind on the island. Gorgeous wooden sliding doors ease open to reveal nicely spacey rooms decorated in earthy tones of burnt mango, cream and chocolate. Bathrooms are again very attractive, with large walk-in showers and beautifully hand made wooden vanities (the beautiful hand-crafted hard wood features throughout Fumba are a highlight of the lodge).

So far so good then…but it’s the Suites (and in particular the Baobab Suites) that really excited us! Perched literally 5 metres above the beach, the Suites have a very exciting bathroom design, the key features being a lovely bath in moulded pigment cement with shutters that open onto a gorgeous view of the beach, and an open-air his ‘n’ hers shower that’s enough to bring a smile to the faces of any honeymooners staying there. If you just want to relax with a book, then the hammock on the patio area overlooking the beach is great – alternatively head up the stairs to the deck area complete with cushions aplenty.

This brings us to the 2 Baobab Suites – which we found some of the most remarkable rooms on the entire island! They lie ensconced either side of a massive baobab tree virtually growing on the edge of the beach. Decadence at its very best, the bathrooms are completely open to the elements save for the vanity which is tucked into the shadow of the roof – yet despite being so open it’s also deliciously private.

The main lodge area is divided into a welcoming bar and chill out area scattered with brightly coloured cushions, as well as a main dining area that opens out on to the pool deck – a generous area with additional tables, loungers and a gorgeous pool to cool off in when the tide is low. Another great bar comes in the shape of an old dhow pulled up into the shadow of a huge baobab tree just off the pool area. Being on the west coast, this dhow bar with its comfortable deck cantilevered over the water is the perfect place to take in the gorgeous sunset over the small surrounding islands!

There are 4 small beaches to choose from at Fumba. These aren’t the endless stretches of sand you find along the east coast – rather they’re small coves calling out to be explored or to enjoy a picnic on. And with a new diving school and a brand new Spa, complete with a fantastic Jacuzzi suspended on a platform high above the ground, Fumba Beach has a variety of attractions to keep guests occupied in spite of its feeling of blissful isolation.