In an increasingly over-commercialized and exploited world, the rural backwater of Mafia Island is just about as far as it is possible to get away from the beaten tourist track! In fact, we often describe it as being like Zanzibar was 50 years ago, with just a handful of intrepid travellers there to share its varied charms with you (despite being roughly a quarter of the size of Zanzibar, the tiny number of hotels on Mafia literally can be counted on the fingers of your hands - and with a couple of fingers still spare!) So it really is the perfect place to retreat to when you really want to get away from it all and relax in an atmosphere of blissful seclusion – and if that’s your aim then it’s hard to imagine a better place than Pole Pole!

Located on the island's east coast in the Chole Bay Marine Park, this tiny little lodge consists of just 9 simple but stylish bungalows overlooking a small beach area, a lovely little duara (a little thatched shelter just above the beach perfect for quietly contemplating the view), a small massage deck where we enjoyed a full body massage, an unobtrusive swimming pool located on top of the hill as well as a wonderfully intimate bar and lounge area. And that’s it – no games room, TV room or even music in the bar! And funnily enough, after the very ornate furnishings and stylizing of many of the other lodges these days, it was this very simplicity - in a superbly stylish way mind you - that made Pole Pole so appealing to us.

The lodge caters for both couples and families, with the 5 original Bungalows (sleeping a couple) located at the top of the hills enjoying gorgeous views down over Chole Bay. They're all sumptuous dark wood floors and deck, with carved and antique furniture pieces and window shutters – offset beautifully by crisp whites and creams - and the overall effect is low-key yet classy. Then for families there are a couple of 2-bedroomed Asali Suites which have a double room and twin room separated by a corridor and so perfect for 2 adults and 2 kids. Finally the latest addition are the 2 Luxury Bungalows (named Alasiri and Alfajiri) which are located just above the beach and which also boast plunge pools - again one of them sleeps 4 whilst the other caters for a couple) Unlike the original bungalows, the floors here are of slate rather than the dark wood of the original rooms.

Whichever room you choose to stay in, you'll find the lodge staff are wonderfully friendly and the service outstanding. Before dinner have a chat at the bar with fellow guests or the friendly lodge management - or perhaps play a game of bao (a traditional board game) with the friendly bar man! It’s also the perfect opportunity to plan your next day’s scuba diving or snorkelling (Chole Bay is home to some of the finest unbleached coral reefs in the Indian Ocean!), an excursion to the ruins and fascinating village on Chole Island, or perhaps a picnic (with fresh fish cooked over an open fire!) on a blindingly white sandbank or deserted beach - perfect for sun tanning and swimming in the crystal clear and warm cobalt blue waters. And the good news is that a daily dhow cruise into Chole Bay to go swimming or snorkelling is included in the rates! Venture across to the other side of Mafia Island during the summer months and you're likely to get the chance to swim with the whale sharks that feed off the west coast of Mafia - yet another unforgettable experience!

One of the things we loved about Pole Pole was the way a waiter arrived at 6PM every evening to take your drinks order – 5 minutes later you’re enjoying sundowners on your deck and watching the nightly flyover of the giant fruit bats from Chole Island across the bay as they come across to Mafia to feed - passing low overhead your vantage point, they make for an absolutely spectacular sight!

After that it’s a short stroll down to the bar area for a companiable drink with your fellow guests before dinner. The bar itself is like the rest of the lodge – intimate and stylish, with dark wood floors and very interesting and attractive walls formed from rough wooden sticks placed in a pattern of contrasting squares.

Pole Pole means “slowly, slowly” in Swahili, and this really does capture the whole essence of the lodge (and in fact, the island) perfectly. Take the diving or snorkelling for example – instead of zooming off in a speed boat to your dive spot as just about every where else (Mafia offers some of the best diving anywhere in the world by the way), you’ll venture out instead into the bay on a traditional dhow with at least one of the legs of your journey under sail power.